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Grand Teton - Complete Exum Ridge

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Uploaded by Bivy Team

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18 :50 hrs

6 mi

6822 ft

III

Mountaineering

Climbing up the south side of the majestic Grand Teton, this route follows the Lower Exum and the Upper Exum on the Full Exum Route. The Lower Exum Ridge is steeper and more difficult than the upper and is a great course for climbers seeking good difficult rock on the Grand Teton. The first pitch of the Lower Exum ridge is a straightforward chimney. Chimney up for a while, tunnel through a chockstone and then you can bypass the second crux where the chimney closes up. The second pitch ascends some ramps and corners up to another large ledge. Pitch 3 ascends a nice jam crack to some black rock. With a 60 meter rope this easily links with pitch 4, which ascends an interesting 5.7 chimney. Pitch 4 chimney is in two parts, starting with the crux of the lower part to get into the chimney, after which it was straightforward and this leads into a wider chimney that is capped with a large chockstone. Next is the famous Black Face pitch that leads to Upper Exum Ridge, one of the most popular routes to the summit. With the combination of ready access, southern exposure and exciting climbing with excellent rock, the Upper Exum route will continue to be popular.

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