Grand Teton - Upper Exum
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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19 :33 hrs
6.4 mi
6949 ft
II
Mountaineering

Included in the historic climbing text "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," the Upper Exum route up the majestic Grand Teton bypasses the more technical Lower Exum, but is still a technical climb. The route and ridge is named after Glenn Exum who pioneered the climb. The route is extremely popular and can be done sooner than others as the snow melts off quickly. Once reaching the saddle between Grand and Middle Tetons, the goal is to reach Wall Street, a giant ledge leading to the crest of the south ridge from the west. The Wall Street ledge is huge and easy to walk along, until the very end where it suddenly becomes exposed and narrow. Rope up here. Next comes the Golden Stair pitch, which ascends directly up the ridge up a steep, knobby face. After this pitch, follow a horizontal section near the ridge crest, then move left to gain access into a gully which slants up and right, the Wind Tunnel. After multiple pitches, this leads to the base of the Friction Pitch. Above Friction Pitch, scramble for 2 more pitches, following the line of least resistence. Look for a section above where you can cross back to the west side of the crest to avoid a slabby tower. Above this is the "V" pitch, one of the most exposed on the route. Climb the SW facing dihedral. From here, follow the Upper Saddle via the Owen Spalding route to the summit. On the descent from the Upper Saddle it is important to stay west. DO NOT head down the broad gully which is immediately west of the Exum Ridge, as it cliffs out. Another option down is to follow the popular Owen Spalding route, which involves 2 rappels and Class 3 scrambling.

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