Eldorado Peak is one of the giants of North Cascades mountaineering, sitting in the middle of several large glaciers and with outstanding views of the rugged terrain surrounding on all sides. The West Arete is a prominent rock buttress that, while not nearly as popular a route as the eastern approach, is a great rock climbing challenge. Follow the standard climber's trail from the North Fork Cascade River up Eldorado Creek and into the basin of Roush Creek. Traverse below the Eldorado Glacier to the notch separating Eldorado from The Triad. Descend the glacier on the northwest side of the notch and traverse beneath the rock ribs on the West Face of Eldorado until reaching the West Arete. The first 800 feet of climbing is Class 4. The first challenge begins at the first of several rock towers along the ridge. The first tower involves traversing to the north side to a chimney, which is followed to the top of the tower. The next few towers are generally avoided by weaving around them in a traverse. The final tower is summited, followed by a rappel to continue on the ridge. The remaining climbing to the summit is Class 4. Descend via the standard east route. Bring a full rack, including chocks and slings. IV 5.8