Little Tahoma: East Shoulder Route
Pierce County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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17 :27 hrs
7.3 mi
5948 ft
I
Mountaineering

Little Tahoma is a major satellite of Rainier and, by some methods of counting, the third highest peak in Washington. A fragment of Rainier's former volcanic massif, Little Tahoma is made of highly fragmented volcanic rock that is very prone to falling. It forms an impressive dark spire. The route begins on the Wonderland Trail from the White River to Summerland. Continue on the trail to Meany Crest, then cut across a meadow to the right side of a cliff band. Follow this ridge and cross onto the Fryingpan Glacier near 7,500 feet. Follow the glacier to an obvious gap in the Whitman Crest at about 9,050 feet. Cross onto the Whitman Glacier and follow it to its top around 10,500 feet. This section can be heavily crevassed in the late season. Find a rocky gully to the left and climb up it and up near the crest of a subsidiary ridge to the main crest only a few dozen yards from the summit. The summit is reached by crossing a small but very exposed notch 15 feet beneath it. This last pitch is Class 4 and should be done roped up. Bring standard climbing and glacier gear as well as good climbing helmets. Rock fall is a major hazard on most of the upper half of the route. Don't attempt to enter the rocky gullies above the top of the Whitman Glacier if another party is there. Contact MRNP for more information on permits. I.

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