Mt Baker: North Ridge
Whatcom County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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12 :21 hrs
11.9 mi
7040 ft
III
Mountaineering

Mt Baker's North Ridge is a classic climb on ice of a variety of inclines and features massive and ever-changing blocks of glacial ice on top of the ridge's rock. The ridge is usually approached on the Heliotrope Ridge Trail and the climber's trail leading to the the camp just below the western arm of the Coleman Glacier. From the camping area, climb to about 6,500 feet and traverse across the broad expanse of the Coleman, keeping near that level until the North Ridge draws closer, then make a rising traverse up to it. The actual route taken will vary according to crevasse hazard. Depending on the status of the moats that open in mid summer, either hop directly onto the ridge at its toe or circle left to find a better place to cross onto it. The climbing on the ridge is very straightforward, though steep, until you reach the famous ice cliff at about 9,800 feet. The ice can be vertical or even overhanging for a move here. The final march to the summit might involve traverses to avoid the massive bergschrunds at the top of the Roosevelt and Coleman Glaciers. Return via the standard route on the upper Deming and Coleman Glaciers. Bring several ice screws, pickets, and a second ice tool. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. III AI3

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