Mt Olympus: Blue Glacier (Standard) Route
Jefferson County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team


32 :20 hrs
19.8 mi
7263 ft

Mt Olympus is without doubt the crown jewel of its namesake mountain range and a coveted mountaineering objective. Stormy weather, numerous crevasses, and loose scree are the main objective hazards on the standard route up the Blue Glacier from Glacier Meadows. The approach to Glacier Meadows is over 16 miles. Several sections have been severely washed out and may require roped assistance. The normal route from Glacier Meadows climbs onto the eastern lateral moraine of the Blue Glacier and follows it to its end. The moraine is notorious for very loose and unstable rock. From there,the route descends onto the glacier and heads southwest toward its opposite side and the Snow Dome. Leave the glacier to avoid a large icefall and continue climbing on rock and snow to the broad, white expanse of the Snow Dome. The normal route in all but the very early season then ascends up the snow ridge south of the Snow Dome and curves east toward a gap in the Northeast Ridge known as Crystal Pass (about 7200 feet.) From there, you return to a different arm of the Blue Glacier and ascend it to its very highest point just below the false summit, or Five Fingers. Descend the false summit to a pass just below the West Peak, the highest point of the massif. Ascend on snow to the northeast corner of the summit block. The easiest route is to traverse the east face to the south ridge, then follow the ridge to the summit. Several more direct variations on this route are possible, mainly in early season when crevasses are buried.

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