The Kautz Glacier route is one of the shortest ascents of Mt Rainier but is much steeper and more technical than the standard approach from the south via Camp Muir. Most parties begin at Paradise and cross the Nisqually Glacier at about 6,200 feet while looking for a fairly obvious gully at about the same level on the other side. Ascend this gully and climb northwest to the western edge of the Wilson Glacier. At about 9,800 feet, climb onto The Turtle, a snowfield that generally extends to 10,800 to 11,100 feet, depending on the season. Shortly after leaving the snowfield, arrive at Camp Hazard, a very small level spot below the Kautz Ice Cliffs. The high camp is usually made here or in this vicinity. It's best to get a very early start for the next section due to the high danger of falling ice when the sun warms the glacier surface. From here, descend a small gully to avoid the broken ice at the margin of the Kautz Glacier, then swing onto it. This is the crux of the route, with 2 to 3 pitches of glacier ice up to 70° as well as the potential for crevasses and falling ice. At the top of these pitches, you can either stay left on the Kautz Glacier or angle up to the right toward the top of Wapowety Cleaver to connect with the upper portion of the Nisqually Glacier. From here, it's 1,100 vertical and 0.7 mi to Columbia Crest. Descent is either on the same route (with possible rappel down the steepest part of the ice) or via the standard route down Ingraham Glacier and the Muir Snowfield. In addition to standard climbing and glacier gear, bring ice screws, pickets, and a second ice tool. See MNRP website for more info on climbing permits. III AI3.