Mt Washington: Winter Direct Route
Mason County, Washington
Uploaded by Bivy Team

VIEW MAP

06 :03 hrs
1.8 mi
3132 ft
II
Mountaineering

The Winter Direct Route is the most popular winter route on Mt Washington and is often climbed on Washington's birthday. The route isn't feasible until several major storm cycles have dumped ample snow on the upper mountain. Take the Jefferson Pass Trail for almost one mile to its end, then head west into the forest along or just south of the ridge. Traverse the south slopes of the ridge to access a large bowl. Aim for the southwest corner of the bowl where there is a large avalanche cone. Ascend this snow slope through a narrow couloir to the base of the East Face. There is one pitch of AI-1 ice climbing (or mixed climbing in low snow years) to 60° up the face to the final scramble up the rocks of the South Ridge. Descend the same route or take the standard summer route down, first downclimbing the Surprise Couloir on the south side of the Southeast Ridge. Allow time after storm cycles for the avalanches to release, check the avalanche forecast before heading out, and bring and know how to use avalanche safety equipment. The road to the trailhead may be snowbound for a considerable distance.

Image
2 photos