The North Peak of Mt Index is the most imposing and formidable of the three despite being lowest because of its steepness and proximity to Lake Serene and the town of Index. Begin climbing at the top of a brushy slope. The first few pitches include two ascents to the left followed by a traverse right into a large gully that is often filled with snow into August. Wet avalanches are possible here well into summer. Then climb some slabs up to the North Rib. Ascend 3 pitches up the North Rib to the first of 2 false summits. Descend to avoid cliffs after the second false summit, then scramble to the top. There are approximately 14 pitches with a maximum difficulty of 5.6. Bring an extra rope as well as extra water, as there is none if there is no snow. IV 5.6