Best Rock Climbing in Maine

Trying to find the best rock climbing in Maine? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

Maine, Penobscot County

00 :22 hrs
0.6 mi
77.08419 ft
Various

The prime climbing spot in the Bangor area, Eagle bluff sports some nice granite that unfortunately dirties quickly from lichen; so please climb here and help keep it clean. This part of the cliff offers steep slabs, bulges and layback flakes. The approach isn't terribly long and is a pleasant walk in the woods.

2

Maine, Oxford County

00 :48 hrs
1.1 mi
193.89291 ft
Various

Although this is not a large formation it does have an abundance of quality climbing routes. The terrain is steep, holds are substantial and the quality of granite is good. The approach is a bit of a hike but it's pleasant and the elevation gain provides a good warmup.

3

Maine, Hancock County

00 :03 hrs
0.1 mi
30.60251 ft
Various

Although very domesticated you couldn't really ask for more in terms of ambiance than Otter Cliffs. You'll find no bolts at Otter and only a few routes offer gear placements but as odd as it sounds to say, you'll find the sickest easy to moderate top-ropes you've ever seen. You'll weave between throngs of tourists wearing big floppy sun hats, cameras hanging from their necks, as you walk along the short approach trail. At the top of the crag you'll have to lower or rap from gear or a few present anchors to a ledge (inundated at high-tide) just above waves, lapping against the rocks. From here haul yourself back up the well traveled, clean granite with great ocean views over your shoulder. Routes are listed from left to right from the perspective of the climber, beginning in The Gallery end of the crag (ocean view right).

4

Maine, Penobscot County

00 :22 hrs
0.5 mi
79.880714 ft
Various

The prime climbing spot in the Bangor area, Eagle bluff sports some nice granite that unfortunately dirties quickly from lichen; so please climb here and help keep it clean. This part of the cliff offers the steepest terrain on the formation with many horizontals leading into roofs. The approach isn't terribly long and is a pleasant walk in the woods

5

Maine, Hancock County

00 :14 hrs
0.3 mi
71.368935 ft
Various

Located off of Acadia National Park's Loop Road this upper tier of climbing features some nice if somewhat fractured rock with seaside views. The approach is short and quite cool as it ascends a fantastically constructed stone staircase. Parking can be an issue, but the right lane of the road is fair game, check signs. This area is subject to closure during falcon nesting season.

6

Maine, Knox County

00 :13 hrs
0.2 mi
71.96823 ft
Various

A decent spot to enjoy moderate trad routes near the Maine Coast. Most climbs here consist of a lower pitch that climbs to Broadway Ledge with options for a second pitch above. The features of the metamorphic rock here can be difficult to protect, leading to somewhat unique rack configurations: Tri-cams, triple lobed SLCD's and small copper stoppers are popular here. Some routes, particularly to the right side of the crag can be slow to dry.

7

Maine, Penobscot County

00 :22 hrs
0.5 mi
82.79458 ft
Various

The prime climbing spot in the Bangor area, Eagle bluff sports some nice granite that unfortunately dirties quickly from lichen; so please climb here and help keep it clean. The terrain is generally slabby, not much goes beyond vertical, overall a good place for advancing intermediate climbers. The approach isn't terribly long and is a pleasant walk in the woods

8

Maine, Hancock County

00 :16 hrs
0.3 mi
80.733826 ft
Various

Perched on a hillside in Acadia National Park, the Precipice is likely the area's largest and most developed cash of serious climbing. Beautiful ocean views, good rock and quality routes await you here. The approach is short and pleasant, the only issue you might find is parking. It is legal to park in the right lane on the on much of the park loop road , if in doubt check for signs.

9

Maine, Penobscot County

00 :21 hrs
0.5 mi
80.147804 ft
Various

The prime climbing spot in the Bangor area, Eagle bluff sports some nice granite that unfortunately dirties quickly from lichen; so please climb here and help keep it clean. The terrain is generally slabby, not much goes beyond vertical, overall a good place for advancing intermediate climbers. This portion of the wall offers multi-pitch routes climbing through several terraces. The approach isn't terribly long and is a pleasant walk in the woods

10

Maine, Oxford County

00 :07 hrs
0.2 mi
25.480469 ft
Various

Located in the quiet woods on the edge of Fryeburg Maine, this small knuckle of granite offers a handful of decent routes a short drive from the tourist madness of North Conway. The West face of the formation is a flat, seam covered, near vertical wall with top roping opportunities. The south face is overhung and bulging with a few bolted routes.

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