New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Junkyard Area is located off Ames Heights Road just down from Alpine Pine Campground. It is a busy crag that offers several moderate routes, excellent cracks, quick and easy approach, and easy toprope access. Some classic crack routes not to be missed are Four Sheets to the Wind, New Yosemite, and Stuck in Another Dimension.

Seneca Rocks is a premier climbing area that is rich with history and best known for incredible multi-pitch trad routes that offer an old-school climbing feel. It is impressive, but intimidating and requires confident gear placement. The approach is steep and exposed- with some routes that require climbing a 5.2-5.5 to reach. The rock can be loose so be sure to bring your helmet. Camping, gear and guides are available at Seneca Shadows Campground or Yokum’s in town. Ecstasy Buttress is the first buttress of rock after crossing the river. The trail splits and the Ecstasy routes are to the right (south end of cliff).

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Flash Point Area offers a good mix of trad and sport routes with a few classics like Flash Point and Euro-Nation. Access from Honeymoon ladders and park at Fern Parking.

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Snake Buttress offers classic face and some new classic sport routes. The sun beats down during the summer so save this for spring, fall or winter climbing. Park in the Nuttall parking or Fern parking lot and descend down the Honeymoon ladders.

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Located along Ames Heights road in New River Gorge, Sandstonia is a newer developed area that is now very popular. The first routes were developed in 2003. Tattoo Wall is the first wall you run into along the approach. It offers a handful of quality sport routes of all levels. Park at the Good Luck Cemetery and follow the powerline to the Sandstonia turn off.

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Located along Ames Heights road in New River Gorge, Sandstonia is a newer developed area that is now very popular. The first routes were developed in 2003. Tattoo Wall is the first wall you run into along the approach. It offers a handful of quality sport routes of all levels. Park at the Good Luck Cemetery and follow the powerline to the Sandstonia turn off.

Seneca Rocks is a premier climbing area that is rich with history and best known for the incredible multi-pitch trad routes that offer an old-school climbing feel. It is impressive, but intimidating and requires confident gear placement. The approach is steep and exposed- with some routes that require climbing a 5.2-5.5 to reach. The rock can be loose so be sure to bring your helmet. Camping, gear and guides are available at Seneca Shadows Campground or Yokum’s in town. The South Peak holds several classics and sees the most traffic. Climb the steep stairs known as the stairmaster. Follow the talus field where things become exposed. Access Triple S from Luncheon Ledge.

Bozoo is located about 50 miles south of New River Gorge and offers an excellent local crag on bullet hard and featured nuttall sandstone. It is similar to the rock at New River and has some classic routes and amazing bouldering. The majority of the routes are traditional or mixed-protection with some sport bolted routes. Two approach trails get you to the cliffs. Rigor Wall holds some classic trad lines. It is the first cliff you encounter from the left approach trail.

Located 1 mile east of the small charming town of Franklin, Parking Lot Wall offers unique and rare limestone climbing in the east. With a collection of sport routes this wall is a car-to-crag approach. The area is on private property so be respectful. Leave your dogs at home and camping is not allowed at the wall- but available nearby.

Located 1 mile east of the small charming town of Franklin, this area offers unique and rare limestone climbing in the east. Impact Zone is located past the Parking Lot Wall and Contact Zone. It offers several moderate routes with a few classics. This area is on private property so be respectful. Leave your dogs at home and camping is not allowed at the wall but available nearby.