Best Rock Climbing in New River Gorge

Trying to find the best rock climbing in New River Gorge ? Bivy has great hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, skiing, riding and more, with hand-curated trail maps, as well as detailed driving directions.

1

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :03 hrs
0.2 mi
35.87256 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Junkyard Area is located off Ames Heights Road just down from Alpine Pine Campground. It is a busy crag that offers several moderate routes, excellent cracks, quick and easy approach, and easy toprope access. Some classic crack routes not to be missed are Four Sheets to the Wind, New Yosemite, and Stuck in Another Dimension.

2

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :32 hrs
1.1 mi
39.24878 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Flash Point Area offers a good mix of trad and sport routes with a few classics like Flash Point and Euro-Nation. Access from Honeymoon ladders and park at Fern Parking.

3

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :33 hrs
1.1 mi
41.241882 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Snake Buttress offers classic face and some new classic sport routes. The sun beats down during the summer so save this for spring, fall or winter climbing. Park in the Nuttall parking or Fern parking lot and descend down the Honeymoon ladders.

4

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :20 hrs
0.8 mi
31.037415 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Located along Ames Heights road in New River Gorge, Sandstonia is a newer developed area that is now very popular. The first routes were developed in 2003. Tattoo Wall is the first wall you run into along the approach. It offers a handful of quality sport routes of all levels. Park at the Good Luck Cemetery and follow the powerline to the Sandstonia turn off.

5

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :21 hrs
0.8 mi
41.126495 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Party Buttress is home to a high concentration of moderate routes. It is located just past Fern Point and gets sun all day. Park at the Fern Creek parking area and descend down the Fern Creek Ladders.

6

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :38 hrs
1.3 mi
48.14795 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Diamond Point is the most impressive crag and can be seen from the bridge. Routes all climb perfect rock and offer killer views up and down the river. It dries out quickly and holds some classic routes. Access is by rappel or you can descend down the Honeymoon Ladders. Park at Nuttal or Fern parking lot.

7

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :36 hrs
1.2 mi
48.14795 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Honeymooners Area offers some classic sport and trad lines on quality rock. It is located just upstream from the honeymoon ladders. Park in the Fern Point parking lot.

8

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :24 hrs
0.9 mi
39.24878 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. The Endless Wall Area stretches over 3 miles of unbroken cliff with an average height of 80 feet. Routes are technical on bullet hard rock. There are 3 parking areas to reach the walls and access down to the cliffs is by rappelling or ladders only after a short, scenic walk. Fern Cirque is located just beyond Party Buttress, tucked in with old trees. It holds shade on those hot summer days. You won’t see the crowds on this wall and there are just a few routes worthwhile. Park at the Fern Creek parking area and descend down the Fern Creek Ladders.

9

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :11 hrs
0.5 mi
66.6698 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Located along Ames Heights road in New River Gorge, Bubba City is a huge area and one of the most popular crags. There is a wide selection of sport routes offering something for all levels. Central Bubba is the most popular wall at Bubba City. Routes are a little more challenging but there is a variety of difficulty.

10

West Virginia, Fayette County

00 :15 hrs
0.7 mi
69.64093 ft
Various

New River Gorge is one of the most popular areas to climb in the east. The rock is Nuttall Sandstone and similar to the Obed or Chattanooga region in Tennessee. Climbing is most pleasant in the spring and fall but can be done year-round at some crags. Cliffs are long and there are not a lot of beginner routes. Located along Ames Heights road in New River Gorge, Bubba City is a huge area and one of the most popular crags. Ames Wall is located just past Central Bubba and Rainbow Ledges. It offers some excellent face climbing with a mix of sport and trad routes. The Bubba City classic “Michelin Man” is the must do route.

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